CASTELBUONO, SICILY

What: the charming village in Sicily where you can get away from the crowds and see the sights. A short drive to Gangi where the dollar or one Euro homes were very popular

Where: about a 45 minute drive from Cefalu on the seacoast. A scenic drive.

When: best in spring and fall to avoid the heat. 

Why: lots of sights and places to dine. Small enough to park your car and walk everywhere.

 

From visitsicily.info

 

A small medieval village in the Park of Madonie with a delightful, still well preserved old town that captivates you from the very first moment, the town develops around the castle of Ventimiglia, near a Byzantine hamlet called Ypsigro. Walking through its narrow streets, is like entering another dimension, it’s like seeing a parade of knights and beautiful ladies wearing rustling brocade clothes and complicated hairstyles. Not by chance, at the beginning of summertime, during the ”Infiorata of Castelbuono”, the historical parades really take place through wonderful tapestries of fresh flowers.

We start our journey from the beautiful Old Madrice. Built in the fourteenth century on the ruins of a pagan temple, the church is preceded by a Renaissance portico added in the 16th century and enriched by a portal in Catalan style. The interior, originally with three naves, has been expanded to four at the end of the fifteenth century. A magnificent polyptych dominates the main altar, a true masterpiece depicting Christ enthroned in majesty with saints, attributed by some scholars to Antonello de Saliba, by others to Peter Ruzzolone.

The lovely marble statue of Our Lady of the Angels by Antonello Gagini and the fresco depicting the Marriage of the Virgin dating back to 15th century, are other wonders not to be missed. Some of the columns separating the aisles, are decorated with frescoes of saints among which stands out for its elegance and delicacy the one portraying St. Catherine of Alexandria. The crypt is entirely frescoed (XVI sec.) with episodes of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ.

 
Castelbuono is, therefore, a little enchanted jewel and, as in any respectable fairy tale, there must be a castle and here’s an impressive one!

It was built by the powerful Count Francesco I Ventimiglia in 1317, upon an existing watchtower of the 12th century. It hosted the court of one of the most influential families of Sicilian history, even more powerful than the Vicerè!

 
These potent counts, who rebelled against the Sicilian rulers, had their Palatine Chapel which is still a precious casket, with wonderful stucco on the bottom of pure gold leaves decorated by the brothers Giuseppe and Giacomo Serpotta (1684-87); behind the altar, kept in a fine, silver reliquary bust of 1521, is the skull of St. Anne, the patron saint of the village.

 
Today the Castle of Ventimiglia is the seat of the Civic Museum of Castelbuono with its several sections: Archeology, Urbanism, Sacred, Modern and Contemporary Art. Its rich program of exhibitions and cultural activities makes it a dynamic landmark for research, meetings and experimentations .

 

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Castelbuono is in the Parco Delle Madonie or Madonie Natural Park. It is not too far from Cefalu and worthy of a two to three day visit. IMG 9689

We enjoyed our three day stay in an Airbnb a short walk from the center of town. The ride from Cefalu was scenic and added to our enjoyment. 

IMG 9687Piazza Margherita, Castlebuno

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Via Castello

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View from our AIRbnb

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Lunch downtown ( in Centro)

 

IMG 9820Flascorano bakery ships all over the world. 

 

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A link to their website. English version

https://www-fiasconaro-com.translate.goog/fiasconaro/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=nui,sc

 

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A performance at the museum in the castle.

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Dinner at one of the many fine restaurants in town.

CATANIA, SICILY FRESH SEAFOOD FOR EVERYONE

I recently watched an other episode of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown. It took place in one of my favorite cities in Sicily, Catania.

Take a brief look at the you tube video that shows what he sees in Catania

 

 

Angela and I came upon this frenetic splendor in 2008,. We had a small BnB around the corner and walked to the market after breakfast.

Crowded and lively, it is an amazing spectacle. 

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The market is in full swing by mid morning..

 

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It is not all about fish, the market spill out to the street

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Dinner out was a simple antipasti from Via Monte St Agata which we discovered by accident 

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Trattoria Monte Sant’Agata

 

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Yes we enjoyed the meal. P1010746Not fine dining,but good food at a veru resonable cost

 

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We always stop at an Ikea store.

A one night stay in Catanioa before we haded over to Cefalu 

We found La Canoica on Via Raddusa. What a great little restaurant 

 

 

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Catania night time walks 

THE FOOD OF ITALY IN NEW HAVEN CONNECTICUT

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I had lived in Connecticut for fifty years before moving to Florida in 2013. During that period of time I loved the   festivals , food and neighborhoods that denoted Italy and Italians. 

Wooster Street is home to a large number of Italian restaurants in New Haven.  My wife Angela and I returned this summer and took a day to explore the wonders of New Haven  and it’s culinary attractions.

51W2RUG6jCL SX348 BO1 204 203 200Books have been written about the Pizza in New Haven,   Colin Caplan wrote Pizza in New Haven in 2018. I traced the history to the family operated pizza ristoranti in New Haven. Many are still in business today. Some with wood or coal burning ovens. Our favorite was Ernie’s on Whalley Avenue.  The Wooster street area has many surviving restaurants and pastry shops. Many of the residents of New Haven came from Amalfi, Atrani, and Maori and brought their culinary skills with them. 

Ernies Pizzeria , New Haven, our favorite. 

 

27c6e030a303765e6efd5fd22e1ab20e united states connecticut new haven county new haven 694975 ernies pizzeriahtm

 

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Frank  Pepe has been a staple of Wooster Street since the early 1900s. From their web site ” Portrait of Frank Pepe
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana was founded in 1925 by Frank Pepe (b. April 15, 1893 d. September 6, 1969). Born in the town of Maiori, on the Amalfi coast, southwest of Naples, Frank Pepe was the quintessential Italian immigrant. Poor and illiterate, he immigrated to the United States in 1909 at age 16 with little more than his health and a strong work ethic. His first job was at a New Haven, CT factory until he returned to fight for his native Italy in World War 1 a few years late” 

Angela and I have stayed in Maiori  on the Amalfi Coast and many of the residents of the Amalfi  areas immigrated New Haven.  Pepe’s is famous for its white clam pizza. The restaurant does a big business and it is not unusual to see people waiting in line outside the restaurant

IMG 0211Sally’s is also on Wooster Street and have been in business since 1938. It is also a coal fired pizzeria Wooster street. 

Consiglios, Pasta Eatitalina Trattoria Napoletana, Zeneli Pizzeria e Cucina, Abate Pizza and Seafood, are just some of the restaurants in the area.

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Libbys Pastry Shop is the perfect spot for a Cappuccino, espresso,  and a dolce. 

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A great assortment of treats 

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As we leave the Wooster Street area we head over to Liuzzi in North Haven for some Italian treats. 

 

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From their website

Hailing from the Southern Adriatic region of Italy, Pasquale Liuzzi came here in 1961 followed by his brother Nick in 1972. Together they founded Liuzzi Gourmet Food Market in 1981. Dreaming of building their own business and carrying on the proud, hardworking traditions of southern Italy, the Liuzzi family’s persistence and tenacity paid dividends.

 

This is one of the largest salumeria or delicatessen in the state of Connecticut. It make me feel like I am back in Italy.

IMG 0218Smoked Prosciutto 

 

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So many choices

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I stop when the basket gets too heavy

 

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They have large assortment of takeout.

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Real Cheese Wheels, not plastic.

Great video of Pizza in New Haven

 

New Haven Apizza from Full Send on Vimeo.

InfoNewHaven.com

 

Credit for video, 

Full Send  Productions

http://fullsendproductions.com/fsp-demo-reel

 

 

 

 

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A food market in Amalfi, Italy

Ischia an Island Off The Coast of Naples

I came across and article on Ischia today that appeared in Forbes Magazine a while back. 

I remember it for its beauty and ease of transportation via the city busses.  The food was excellent and thermal baths abound in this little volcanic island. Take the ferry from Napoli and enjoy your stay. 

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It is just s short ferry ride from Naples to Ischia. On the way uou pass the equally enchanting island of Procida. 

CIMG0715The island  of Pricida

A 2018 article in Forbes magazine said “Ischia may be one of Italy’s best kept secrets”. It is certainly a relaxing and interesting place to visit. It is affordable with excellent restaurants. It is more casual than Capri and much less hectic. Thermal hot [springs feed pools for a relaxing warm swim. Parts of the movie “The Talented Mister Ripley” were filmed here. Great seafood abounds on this 18 square mile island

 

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On the ferry  from Napoli to Ischia. We brought our car on the ferry, is was a reasonable price.

CIMG0471 The Castello Aragones  is a medieval castle next to Ischia (one of the Phlegraean Islands), at the northern end of the Gulf of Naples, Italy. The castle stands on a volcanic rocky islet that connects to the larger island of Ischia by a causeway (Ponte Aragonese).

CIMG0473Insalata Caprese for our lunch

 

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Lava formations from past eruptions on this volcanic island.

 

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Getting ready to jump. 

CIMG0499Diving into the sea brings relief from the warm summer day.

 

 

CIMG0501Each day the pool is emptied and refilled from the thermal spring. The water is warm, and if filled with minerals.

We took a bus to get to Lo Scoglio, in Sant Angelo. It was s short ten minute drive to an amazing treat. 

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The entrance to Lo Scoglio

 

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Frutti di Mare

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My wife Angela was thrilled with all this fresh seafood.

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A cruise ship passes by.

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Outside dining makes for an enjoyable evening. .

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Samt Angelo, Ischia. Check out the fumarole beaches with steam jets rise up  through the sands.  Food is cooked by burying it in the sand and letting the volcanic steam do its thing.

 

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A salumaria or delicatessen has the real bufala mozzarella. This is best served at room temperature and best kept only on day. It is different from the fresh mozzarella which we find in American supermarkets.

 

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More views 

 

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It is well worth the trip.Stay for a few days to enjoy the shops, dining, and the swimming. You can bring your car over on the ferry. Busses run to many of the attractions.

 

 

https://maps.apple.com/?address=Ischia,%20Naples,%20Italy&auid=12476986191221287559&ll=40.732341,13.944971&lsp=6489&q=Ischia&_ext=Ch8KBQgEEJABCgQIBRADCgQIBhADCgQIChAJCgQIVRAHEiYpt/GC441aREAxdM70t6naK0A5eWwVDs5fREBBwAZEiCvvK0BQDA%3D%3D

 

 

 

 

Non vedo l’ora. I can’t wait.

The best cheese comes from Italy. Visiting this year is out, and I got hungry, DSC 1697

So I searched on Amazon for Pecorino cheese. Sheep’s milk cheese. I found a great product and decided to order it,

 

IMG 2166It was shipped UPS Air and arrived in two days from Parma, Italy. 

 

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It was packed with a styrofoam inner container with cooling jej.

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This is it.   Just about 4 lbs.  

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It even includes a cutting knife.

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It is a softer cheese than Parmesan with a wonderful aroma and taste. Pecorino Toscano is a PDO cheese made in the Tuscany region of Italy. You can order directly from them at the following web site

http://www.parmashop.com

 

For me all cheese that I have eaten in Italy is great, and now I can bring it home. My 2 kilo order cost $79 with UPS air shipping.  That was a good price. See the photo below that show a shop window in the Trastevere section of Roma where the price for kilo was 63 Euro. 

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In Florida you can visit Doris Market in West Palm which specializes in Italian Foods.

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I Never Forget A Meal

I am borrowing the title of a book by Michael Tucker who also fell in love with Italy and has always loved food.  Italian food and Italian meals are to be savored and enjoyed. His book was great and you can find copies on Amazon. Also recommended is “Living in a Foreign Language” also by Michael Tucker which is similar to Under the Tuscan Son, but with more humor and a bit of attitude. 

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We are on the island of Ischia, a small island off the coast of Napoli. We stayed in a small hotel with great views of the area and had a pleasant lunch of  Prosciuto e Melone.

 

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We also hand Insalata Capresse with fresh mozzarella di buffala

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At anolther ristorante in ischia we had frutti di mare. As fresh as you can get.

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While staying on Lake Carda in the town of Brenzone we had a waterfront dinner of Cacio e PepeIMG 1785

Lunch at a winery in Vicenza IMG 1787

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Below is home made pasta in Milano, I took a pasta making class. 

Felt is was time to lear how to do it, I had a pasta making machine at home that my bother bought about thirty years ago.

 

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Nothing like your own fresh pasta

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IMG 1445Pasta alla Norma 

 

 

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Mixed fruit that we bought at the market in Siracusa  Sicily

Below is beefsteak Florentine

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You start with aged meet. This is from Il Pandemonio, Florence Italy

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It comes rare to medium rate, It is a think steak, about 1.5 to 2.0 inches. 

There is nothing like it.

 

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Back in Catania, Sicily

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An entire meal of antipasti 

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My wife Angel and I after a wonderful meal.

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Il Torre Del Mangia, Siena

Piazza  del  Campo

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Insalata Capresse

Pasta with Pesto

There are more to come. This Brunello from 2011 met it Demis in 2020 as we reminisced about Italy.

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The Markets of Italy

To me nothing is more beautiful than the way Italian markets display their food.  The quality is overwhelming, the aromas intriguing, and the tastes are fantastico. 

 

Catania Fish Market

Fish Market In Catania, Sicily

Catania Fish MarketCatania Fish Market

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Stall in Amalfi

 

 

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Catania

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Fruit and Vegetables

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Lemons, Catanzaro Calabria 

 

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Autogrill 

 

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A Pasticciera in Erice

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Blood Oranges, Palermo

 

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Garlic Aglio

 

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Melenzanie – Eggplant

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Mushrooms, Rome

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Artichokes, Carciofi Roma

 

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Fresh Bread, Roma

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My banana harvest, Vero Beach, FL 

Not Italy but this came from a Tree in our front yard.

Ciao

My Favorite Streets In Rome

This year we returned to Rome for eight wonderful nights.  In 2017 we were in Rome for two weeks, and enjoyed becoming familiar with the city. It was no longer intimidating. On our last visit we stayed in an Airbnb on Via Dei Bianchi Vecchi. It was a great location to walk to many of Romes’s attractions. This year we found an Airbnb that did not have 67 steps to climb to the second floor. It was located on Via Cappellari about 200 feet from the Campo Dei Fiori.

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From our location which was “Via dei Cappellari, 124 primo piano” we were able to walk to the following sights.

Chiesa Dei Stata Barbara Labrari

Chiesa Dei Santa Barbara Dei Librari

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Chiesa Dei Santa Barbara Dei Librari Interior

Well worth the visit, small and beauitiful

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Campo dei Fiori

The Campo dei Fiori is a great place to wanter and view the sights night and day. Surrounded by restaurants and shops, it transforms from a daytime tent city to vendors selling everything from fruits and vegetables to clothing and other items to a huge area wandering people. 

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Stalls and shops at the Campo

St Peters is about 10 min from the area. Walk down Corso Vittorio Emanuele and cross of the bridge by Castel Sant’Angelo and make a slight left and you will see it ahead.

 

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St Peter from the dome

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW thumb cb90St Peters Interior

On to lunch in Trastevere

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The chiesa of Santa Maria in Trastevere was another short walk

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Always a wedding seven days a week

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Crossing the bridge headed back to our Airbnb a beautiful view of St Peters in the distance 

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Lost In Rome, Again

Being lost in Rome is a treat, not a problem.  We dropped our rental car off in Venezia, how amazing  it is to drive to the edge of this cluster of islands. After leaving the car inform of the Hertz office, we walked across the street and closed a bridge to Venezia. IMG 1172

Next we walked to the Santa Lucia station to get our high speed train to Rome. Reserved seats and a great ride. IMG 0982

Italo provides fast and nice transport, It was a pleasure to travel by train.

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Beverage service was provided and restrooms were spotless.

After arriving at our Airbnb on Via Dei  Cappellari i, we head one block to the Campo Dei Fiori. We chose this location as it was near our last Airbnb and enabled us to walk to most of the destinations in Rome we wanted to see. 

 

IMG 1009Campo dei Fiori at night. The market is gone, now it is dinnertime and people watching. A full moon came to welcome us.

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Quick walk to the Vatican 

DSC00444We were located so close to so many wonderful sights ant things to do.

 

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The downtown market was filled with food and wines. 

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A Rome market. 

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This small Filetti di Baccala is a tiny space which specialized in Cod Filets which were delicousIMG 1059

One man runs the kitchen. Everything is prepared while you wait. 

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Find  at Largo dei Labari, near the church of Santa Barbara

 

Some more walking and another wedding. First of several we saw.

 

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A walk across the tiber to a new area of Rome. Trastevere, another jewell.  Trastevere translates to across the Tiber

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An uncrowded street in Trastevere. Via del Moro. 

 

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This post will be continued.

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Caico e Pepe, Osteria da Fortunata , Via  Pelligrino

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