Il Viaggio – The Trip

I just returned from an 12 day trip to Italy. I visited Milan, Trento, Bolzano, Padova, Vincenza, Venice, Lake Garda and several small villages which our bike our took us through. It was an amazing trip, but I learned a lesson. DON’T BOOK YOURSELF SOLID.  I had set up so many things withs dates and times that I forgot to live the Italian lifestyle and not rush.  None the less, it was an amazing trip. But I will remember for the next visit. IMG 1186

Pasta with ragu in a small ristorante in Milano. Off the beaten path, not crowded and a great meal. 

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The The Osteria The Full Moon

This was my first dinner in Milano, and you might like to visit this quiet southern Italian ristorante if you have time. Here is the address.  Via Lazzaro Palazzi 9, 20124 Milan, Italy.  If you have not guessed, I am a big fan of Southern Italian cooking and Sicilian Cooking. IMG 1190IMG 1292

 

Bikes are a way of life in Milano and most of italy.  The bike share cycles area all over. It is not uncommon to see some in a dress and high heels, or a business suit riding down the street. In Desenzano del Garda a young man was riding in the rain with an umbrella held high above his head… Sujch is the life of those who commute on a bicci!

The next post will include the Cenaclo and the Canal District.

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Testaccio Market, Rome. Food, clothing, relaxation.

We strayed from our Campo dei Fiore market to seek out the Testaccio Market. It has moved from a covered stall environment to a new modern clean building. It proved to be a great day trip. Google maps gave us the correct bus line to make and after that is was a short walk.

 

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This is a large comfortable space with many vendors, both food and clothing. We enjoyed looking and eating at the market.

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Fresh seafood is abundant. 

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Fresh vegetables with very affordable prices.

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My favorite porchetta! Delicious.

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Tripe is a favorite of many people, ma non io.

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Bring your own bottle, look at the prices. 2.40 E for a liter. 

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Arancini or supple are a favorite of mine.

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We enjoyed lunch from this stall

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It was a great lunch.

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Clothing is also sold.

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The market is well worth the visit. Lots has been written about it and there are no exaggerations. Enjoy the many markets of Rome. I am back in Florida and our weekend markets do not come close to the Rome markets.

 

The Naples of Elena Ferrante

Naples is a frenetic city with an amazing charm.  I found this out the first time I drove in this city and did not speak any Italian. I jumped on the Tangenziale, Naples answer to the Long Island Expressway. Immediately I found I was in a war zone and in over my head. Slowing for an accident someone clipped my mirror and sped off.

As time went on I discovered Naples and it people are amazing.   In a Fratelli Pellone I was invited to make pizza. In the markets we found bargains and amazing foods. Walking the streets we felt comfortable even at night.  My wife and I have been back several times and always enjoyed our visits. Whether it was a musuem visit, or just talking to people we felt at home.

The novels of Elena Ferrante usually take place in the neighborhoods, the quartiere. Those are the streets we walked.  The series of books tells the stories of Elena and Lila from their childhood to adulthood as they progress through the challenges the Neapolitan society and continual changes.

fre·net·ic
frəˈnedik
adjective
  1. fast and energetic in a rather wild and uncontrolled way

DSCN4641.jpgThe Naples waterfront from a Hotel Paradiso high up on the hillside.DSCN3773.JPGBoats docked in the harbor.DSCN8539.JPGOn the street heading to the market.DSCN8542.JPG
All kinds of seafood.DSCN8543.JPGDefinitely not the A&P.fullsizeoutput_9ff8.jpegMuscels, Cozze. fullsizeoutput_9ff9.jpegThese did not travel 3000 miles.DSCN8553.JPGIt is not the wash, it is ART.

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La Galleria Umberto

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Evening  at the harbor

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At Pizzeria Pellone, they let me make a pizza. You don’t walk in to a pizza parlor in the US and have them invite you to help in the kitchen.  That is what makes Naples great. The people.  We were staying in a hotel in the business area of town. There were no open restarunts near us. I stopped and asked someone for advice on where to go.  He brought me to a small alimentari, grocery store , and asked his boss.  That kind man walked us halfway to the pizza place and made our evening special.

P1030999.JPGIt goes in the oven and with the high heat from the wood fire, 5 minutes is all it takes.P1040004.JPGHere it is ready to eat. This was a tomato pie. P1040003.JPGP1040005.JPGMy wife and I joined the crew.  What a treat. P1040010.JPGPizzeria Pellone, Via Nationale, 93 Napoli.   It is great Pizza.

P1030991.JPGIf you vist Naples, be sure to stop here.

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