The Naples of Elena Ferrante

Naples is a frenetic city with an amazing charm.  I found this out the first time I drove in this city and did not speak any Italian. I jumped on the Tangenziale, Naples answer to the Long Island Expressway. Immediately I found I was in a war zone and in over my head. Slowing for an accident someone clipped my mirror and sped off.

As time went on I discovered Naples and it people are amazing.   In a Fratelli Pellone I was invited to make pizza. In the markets we found bargains and amazing foods. Walking the streets we felt comfortable even at night.  My wife and I have been back several times and always enjoyed our visits. Whether it was a musuem visit, or just talking to people we felt at home.

The novels of Elena Ferrante usually take place in the neighborhoods, the quartiere. Those are the streets we walked.  The series of books tells the stories of Elena and Lila from their childhood to adulthood as they progress through the challenges the Neapolitan society and continual changes.

The Naples waterfront from a Hotel Paradiso high up on the hillside.Boats docked in the harbor.On the street heading to the market.
All kinds of seafood.Definitely not the A&P.Muscels, Cozze. These did not travel 3000 miles.It is not the wash, it is ART.

La Galleria Umberto

Evening  at the harbor

At Pizzeria Pellone, they let me make a pizza. You don’t walk in to a pizza parlor in the US and have them invite you to help in the kitchen.  That is what makes Naples great. The people.  We were staying in a hotel in the business area of town. There were no open restarunts near us. I stopped and asked someone for advice on where to go.  He brought me to a small alimentari, grocery store , and asked his boss.  That kind man walked us halfway to the pizza place and made our evening special.

It goes in the oven and with the high heat from the wood fire, 5 minutes is all it takes.Here it is ready to eat. This was a tomato pie. My wife and I joined the crew.  What a treat. Pizzeria Pellone, Via Nationale, 93 Napoli.   It is great Pizza.

If you vist Naples, be sure to stop here.